Wednesday, June 25, 2008

How Do I Dip My Rims In Chrome

The ceviche in the Time of Cholera


to eat a good ceviche in Lima of the seventies had to move to the strategic points where we could consume our signature dish that in those times did not enjoy the popularity of these days. Thus most popular places were the Chorrillos kiosks, especially the fishing pier whose day of glory was the first of January in which hundreds of survivors resaqueados new year holidays imposed undisputed that ritual trance cut a generous portion of spicy ceviche accompanied by a beer or ice cold Inca Kola. The families were not used to eating out or seafood dishes and the choices were focused primarily on grilled chicken and the Chinese restaurant. Adults knowledgeable on the subject, talked about restaurants in La Punta and Callao, but essentially established supply in some markets such as Central, the Producers in San Isidro, the Jesus and Mary Magdalene who enjoyed the same good reputation in the field. It is true that in some prestigious restaurants were preparing good ceviche but the fact is that its consumption was massive and the supply was restricted to the sites mentioned.

Mariano Valderrama (Lima, 1944) in his impeccable book "Pathways and flavors of ceviche" recreate the evolution of consumption of ceviche in Lima Area restaurants taking stock of pioneers in the proposed marine cuisine. Mariano, sociologist by profession and authoritative voice in the country in matters of international cooperation is also gourmet, but above all, a great diner, so his words have years of foundation and spoon.

the late seventies, there are a few local ceviche associated with tropical and salsa music the best known being the Latin Brothers (curiously omitted by Mariano in his book) located in the vicinity of Wildcat Park Fire and then opened another location on the street Cantuarias in Miraflores, in which sources were alternated with presentations of salsa ceviche national and international stature of Cuco Valoy left immortalized its image in a giant mural of local José Leal Avenue.

Salta to light the restaurant the Jibaro on Avenida La Paz on the edge of San Miguel and El Callao and a number of branches and versions with the name of the Jibarito in the same area, in the first block of Faucett and Avenue near Brazil Javier Prado in Magdalena. Open other facilities such as The Shark and the Ronco corner, turning the area into a reference a must. The novelty of these places is that they incorporate the concept of a source cebiche sale prices and quite comfortable. It also makes an appearance in the mass market of consumers of seafood ceviche as an ideal complement to, jelly (frying Arreba fish, squid, octopus and squid accompanied by native bush, yucca fries, and tartar sauce court), unknown to most diners, but widely accepted. The letters are diversified and incorporate rice, sweat, and other litter. However, the prevailing combination of ceviche and jelly (with high doses of popcorn prior) that came to be somewhat similar alternative to the classic Chinese restaurant: fried wonton, fried rice and sautéed noodles.

in the eighties, new options sound more polished and stronger the Sonia and Hope in Chorrillos, 2 restaurants of the same newsagent Fishermen dock your culinary guide to diners demanding and more affluent. In other neighborhoods Unveil Mamic, Delfino sea, Pisces, Puerto Pizarro, Francesco, Los Cebiches Beta and the famous Don Jose Galvez street in Miraflores, compared to the frozen Alpha. Subsequently, establishing the chain Ceviche del Rey in different districts but with a more commercial and offer much lower quality than those mentioned.

concept and splendid sources to gargantuan portions in some cases, attract the attention of young and middle-class to upper middle class neighborhoods and, in parallel, it consolidates the consumption of fish and shellfish the city, always associated with salsa, folk music, sun, fulbito sabatino and especially ice cold beer.

In the nineties is rooted culinary seafood in Lima and is refined and stylized in the last decade with the boom of the sensational gourmet cuisine and the chefs mergers fail school, but mainly those from the pioneers that began years ago to experience techniques and flavors, with those of China's influence and the most amazing nikei the discerning palate of Peruvian brava spoon.

Those who were fortunate enough to have lived close to the evolution of ceviche that went from being a fisherman's dish to grace the tables of the most exclusive restaurants Lima, we live to tell it. Now there's a lot of posturing in knowing kitchen and qualify huariques datear dishes, making those inroads value Hartnell and Sunday best in almost all premises described, made with natural and high doses of curiosity, wanting to learn to eat different things without fear or prejudice, with courage can overcome, in time, the same fear of the cholera epidemic. Penetration
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